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0:00
Hello, I'm Alex Arnold, and this is climbing support with a wired question from David Sandal, Sandel, perhaps.
0:29
What's your favorite type of climbing hold?
0:29
Pinch, crimp, sloper, slab, heel hook, toe hook, jam, or drop knee.
0:29
Some of those aren't even climbing holds, but who cares?
0:29
He just named all kinds of fancy climbing words, and I will show you how to do all these fancy techniques on a climbing gym wall.
0:29
Check it out.
0:29
Pinches are, as you would expect, just pinching with your hand.
0:29
Crimping means like an edge that you then bring your thumb over your fingers and pull really hard.
0:29
Slopers are just anything, you know, where your hand is sort of open.
0:38
A heel hook isn't really a hold either, but it's just something you can put your heel on.
0:41
Toe hooking is something that you hook your toe on, pretty straightforward.
0:47
Jamming is just anytime you put your hands or your feet or even your elbow or whatever else into a crevice and jam it into place.
0:47
Uh, knee dropping, Brits call it an Egyptian, you know, because you turn all hieroglyphic style.
0:59
You know, I like pinches.
1:02
I like big limestone.
1:02
I like tufas, that's like a type of limestone pinch.
1:02
But I like gram salt, like so, you know, I kind of like it all.
1:02
It really depends on how clean the rock is and how aesthetic the line is and how, how flowy the climbing is.
1:06
Question from Glenn Holland: Why are yellow holes always the little crimpy suckers or the slimy slopers?
1:10
That is a fair question.
1:12
I don't know why the yellow holes always suck.
1:14
It's like always the little, little fierce little guys.
1:17
I don't know why, but somebody decided the yellow would be hard, and it is.
1:20
Here's a question from Queen Cooking: Have you climbed cracks?
1:23
I found gloves made for crack climbing, interested in different opinions.
1:30
Some considered it to be cheating.
1:28
You've got to have pain.
1:30
You don't have to endure pain if you don't want to.
1:32
Gloves protect against rock abrasion.
1:33
I think what she's getting at is that a lot of people think that it's cheating to use crack gloves, but I think I naturally have kind of thick skin, and so it's not as big an issue for me.
1:40
I do actually think for beginners it's probably better to use crack gloves or tape or something to protect their hands and learn good technique to begin with.
1:45
I'm going to show you how to crack climb in the gym, which basically just means very carefully, good technique.
1:50
In crack climbing is putting your hand into the crack, locking it into place, and then not having it slide or move, nothing like passing blood stains next to the crack.
1:59
You know that you're doing it right.
2:00
People tear holes in their skin when their hand slides out of the crack or if it gives, but if you can place it in and exert enough pressure in the one spot, it won't cut your skin unless you slide out of the jam.
2:09
Next question from Jay: Do all rock climbers live in vans?
2:16
#freesolo.
2:14
No.
2:14
So not all rock climbers live in vans, and I lived in a tent with a bicycle for a while before, and I didn't have a car for a while, but I think that living in a van is definitely a nice way to live as a rock climber because it allows you a lot of the comfort of a home, but with the flexibility of traveling non-stop to get to good climbing areas and follow good weather.
2:31
But no, I mean a lot of climbers live out of the back of trucks, some live out, a friend of mine who's a professional climber lived out of a Honda Civic for many years, which is pretty scrappy, but, uh, but he did just fine.
2:38
Next question from Mike Ball: Anyone have advice on how to keep my forearms from filling with blood and losing my grip during #bouldering or #rockclimbing?
2:50
What he's asking is how do you keep from getting pumped when you climb?
2:50
The only real way to do that is just to, to build up more fitness, and if you are in the middle of a climb and you find that your arms are really, really pumped, then you kind of just have to find a hold that's big enough for you to recover on.
2:50
So I'll show you now in a climbing gym how I would recover, which is basically just finding a big hold and hanging from it one-handed, sort of relax the other hand, just let your muscles relax.
2:50
Some people find like shaking it helps, other people find that just letting it dangle helps, or just taking deep breaths.
2:50
If you've never practiced resting, then you won't be able to recover even on a really big hold.
3:18
Question: Hey Alex, you climbed El Capitan.
3:24
He forgot the end.
3:24
I want to know how you just remain focused rather than being afraid of the height.
3:26
I mean, he really wants to know how I climbed El Capitan.
3:29
He should just watch the film Free Solo because it's a pretty, pretty good coverage of the two years of practice and preparation and training that I put into actually climbing it.
3:36
I don't know, there's a lot to unpack in that question, but I mean, I think in general it's easy to remain focused when your life is on the line, you know.
3:48
Question from Nicole Vandenbrook: Once you got to the top, how did you get down?
3:50
Another easier path for abseiling and how did the whole crew get there so fast and no water drinks on the whole climb of Free Solo?
3:58
Basically, she wants to know about the logistics of free-soloing El Cap.
4:03
To get down from the top of El Cap, you can walk down the side and then you do a little bit of rappelling at the end of it.
4:03
So the whole crew hiked up that way.
4:03
Yeah, it's funny, how did the crew get there so fast?
4:03
They would probably argue that it took them a long time.
4:03
I mean, it takes a couple hours to walk up there, and it's very hard work and they have heavy backpacks on.
4:12
It's, you know, feels like a lot of toil, and there were water drinks on the climb.
4:18
I stashed water and food in two places on the route, both big natural ledges, one a thousand feet off the ground and the other one about 2,000 feet off the ground.
4:29
So I kind of broke the route into thirds, so I was able to relax in a couple places.
4:29
It's just not shown in the film because, you know, it's a 90-minute documentary that covers two years of my life, so it's hard to show everything.
4:37
Question from Dominic: Alex, if you can remember, I'd love to know the mystery meal you cooked in Free Solo.
4:45
I know it contained eggs, spicy canned chili, spinach, and some crunchy vegetable.
4:40
I can't be the only one who wants to try it.
4:49
Best documentary mystery meal.
4:49
I think the meal that he's referring to was, was sort of an egg scramble.
4:53
I think I did sweet potatoes and maybe an onion, sort of grilled them up and then added eggs and then probably, well, apparently canned chili and maybe spinach on top as well, but basically it's just me mixing all the vegetables in my van together and adding some eggs and making it delicious.
5:08
Question from Dave Barker: How do rock climbers get their ropes back when coming down?
5:12
Must cost them a fortune.
5:12
I don't totally even know where to start with that, so, um, so normally you climb up to an anchor.
5:18
It's a fixed anchor on the wall.
5:20
There are carabiners or chains or something attached to the wall permanently, and then you just lower back down from those, and when you get to the ground, you just untie your knot, you pull the rope back down, everything comes down, it's no problem.
5:28
Your ropes don't really cost a fortune, typically, you know, your rope will last for years and you use it over and over.
5:38
From BeachChicken.etsy: I'm going into a rock climbing today, it should be very interesting.
5:38
What does one wear rock climbing?
5:40
Need advice.
5:40
I think you can wear anything.
5:45
I mean, wear exercise clothes, wear yoga clothes, wear pajamas, you know, whatever's comfortable.
5:51
If you wear tight jeans, you might not be able to put your feet where you need to.
5:51
I'm joining a rock climbing gym, any advice on equipment to get just basics?
5:51
I think you basically need shoes, harness, and chalk bag, and a belay device, and then eventually maybe a rope or depending on the gym even just shoes in a chalk bag would be enough, or if you're feeling really cheap just shoes and then borrow other people's chalk.
6:08
Climbing shoes affect your performance as a climber more than any other piece of equipment.
6:12
Here's a question from your girl Katie: How does one get over the fear of falling when bouldering?
6:16
I fell once and almost busted my leg, so now I'm afraid to boulder without being worried about falling.
6:22
Tips.
6:22
I think that that to feel comfortable falling, you have to trust that you're not going to get hurt when you fall, and I think that that trust needs to be built up over time.
6:28
Now I'm going to show how I fall in a bouldering gym, which honestly, I don't know if it's the best way, but I have been falling this way for 20 years, and, you know, I generally don't get hurt, so we'll see.
6:42
You know, there are a few basics in how to fall well while bouldering, landing on your feet ideally, and then sort of rolling backward, dispersing the force, not putting your hands behind you, not landing too crooked or anything, but I think that if you have some kind of an accident, you know, it takes a while to build confidence back up after that.
6:52
So I think that an obvious way would be to sort of start small, take very small falls, you know, fall with a lot of control and sort of build back up, but know that the gym is made for you to be safe, so you should be okay.
7:06
That said, I have broken my arm in the gym.
7:06
How do rock climbers get the ropes tied to the top so they can use the ropes to climb things, I ponder.
7:12
I'm curious what other things they ponder.
7:13
So most rock climbers don't get the rope tied to the top.
7:16
Most climbers climb from the bottom and they clip the rope into protection as they go.
7:21
So sometimes they carry equipment with them and place it in the cracks, sometimes the equipment's already in situ and they just have to clip it, but one way or another, people normally start from the bottom and then climb upward and clip in as they go, and so it's kind of up to them to make sure that they stay safe.
7:38
Alex Honnold is a god and psychopath all in one.
7:36
He's on some transcendental level type chisel.
7:38
I'll just edit that.
7:40
How does he do that?
7:40
What happens if he sneezes on the cliff?
7:42
I don't even know where to go with that, so if I sneeze on the cliff, I fall to my death, you know, so I just make sure that my sinuses are totally clear before I climb every time.
7:53
No, that's, I don't know, I mean if you sneeze, you sneeze, I don't know, it's like when you're driving on the highway, if you sneeze, are you instantly going to die?
7:58
It's like probably not, you just stay straight and sneeze.
8:00
I don't think I'm on any transcendental level stuff.
8:02
We'll just, I don't think he quite gets it.
8:06
Here's a question from a dude whose name I can't read, but he asks how many pull-ups can an elite rock climber bang out?
8:11
I think that's a very wide range.
8:13
I think that most climbers can probably do, you know, at least 20 pull-ups maybe, but I know a few professional climbers who, you know, can't do that many pull-ups.
8:21
I can only do a handful, but they have freakishly strong fingers, and that's kind of enough to hang onto the rock, and then they also have really good technique.
8:31
I'll do a few pull-ups on a bouldering wall just to show that I can do them, so I'm going to bet that I can do at least 10.
8:47
Really, the number of pull-ups you can do doesn't necessarily correlate to how well you can climb, but I'm definitely not maxing out because I'd rather save my energy for actual climbing.
8:53
Question from Dan: What's a good beginner guide to hangboard training?
8:57
Do you still use them?
9:01
#rockclimbing.
8:59
I think as a beginner you probably shouldn't worry about hangboarding that much.
9:06
If you just started climbing, having really strong arms and strong fingers isn't really the most important thing.
9:06
You want to focus on your footwork, you want to work on technique, you want to learn how to move your body well, and I think that hangboarding becomes more of a useful training tool as you get more advanced in climbing.
9:17
But I think if you're a beginner and you really want to train on a hangboard, then you should focus on bodyweight hangs and start very gently.
9:32
Question from The Atheist Officiant Alexander: Any chance you will be in Tokyo for the 2020 games?
9:32
Wife and I are having a great conversation about the different types of climbing, how gym is different than rock.
9:32
We want to hear your thoughts on Olympic climbing.
9:32
So there is a chance that I'll be in Tokyo for the 2020 games, not competing however, maybe doing some commentating or talking about it because I really want to watch.
9:32
But it is true that the gym climbing and Olympic style climbing is fundamentally different than rock climbing, particularly on big walls like in Yosemite.
9:32
So the people who are currently qualifying for the Olympics and will be competing in the Olympics are for the most part teenagers, and in the way that Olympic level gymnasts are mostly from the age of say 15 to maybe 21 or something.
10:02
So by that standard I'm way over the hill and I'm, yeah, I'm way past my prime timing-wise.
10:06
The people who are going to be winning the Olympics are focused on training in the gym, but to climb something like El Capitan, you spend all your time outside adventuring and hiking.
10:14
It's just totally different arenas.
10:16
Here's one of Elon Musk: Have you reached out to Alex Honnold about a climbing trip to Mars?
10:21
And so just in case Elon's listening to this, I would love to go, you just say the word.
10:21
This is Climate Support with Wired.
10:21
I hope you learned something, and thanks for watching!