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0:00
Hello, I'm Nick Offerman and welcome to Wood Support.
0:06
Markpls Games asks, "Please help settle an argument: are woodworking aprons really necessary?" #woodworking.
0:17
Yes, they are.
0:19
Any protective garment is necessary.
0:22
I mean, it depends on what you're doing, but we wear aprons because they protect our civilian clothing from finishing products and just dust in general.
0:31
And they have handy pockets in which you can store things like pencils, rulers, and your one-hitter.
0:42
Evan E. Richards asks, "If I'm staining a big piece of red oak, do I need to use a pre-stain conditioner or will oak take the stain well as it is?"
0:42
Don't ever stain red oak.
0:42
If you're going to stain it, get something cheaper than red oak.
0:42
Use poplar.
0:42
I hate stain.
0:42
Beast Thing asks, "What books would you recommend for someone who wants to learn about woodworking?"
0:42
There's a lot of really good books.
0:42
There's one that I happen to write called "Good Clean Fun" that's great for beginners.
1:11
Woodworking in general has a lot of different specializations, but the ones that I would generally recommend would be anything by George Nakashima, a fellow named Tage Frid, T. A. G. E. F. R. I. D.
1:32
At O.D. Jam 515 asks, "Good sir, wrapping up my first wood project to house guitar amp, added second and final coat of poly, do I sand again after dry?"
1:32
It depends on how good of a brush worker you are.
1:32
If you get a perfectly smooth finish, then you don't need to sand it again.
1:32
Personally, I don't like the glossy shine that comes from most finishes, so after the final coat, I will at least scuff it with a 400 steel wool or a super fine steel wool just to knock down the shine.
1:32
But it all depends on how nice your finish is.
1:32
The Jimmy Chicago asks, "What's your favorite shape of dovetail?"
1:32
That's an ignorant question because there's only one shape of dovetail.
1:32
It is the dovetail shape.
1:32
But if you're asking maybe, what's my favorite size of dovetail?
1:32
I do like tiny pins in a dovetail layout.
1:32
I think that's handsome, and it belies a mastery of the form.
1:32
At Ars asks, "Need advice on oil/varnish that helps maintain look and feel of antique table over 100 years old but isn't prone to water marking."
2:50
There's a great set of books by a fellow named Bob Flexner on finishing that would be a much better resource than me.
2:58
I dislike any finish but some sort of oil varnish mix that's applied by hand.
3:04
I would basically just up your varnish in your proportion so that it has a higher protection.
3:12
But if you can create a sample board and experiment with different mixes and then hold them up to the existing finish to see which one looks the most right and use coasters, woodworking guys.
3:29
And asks, "Noob question: what angle should I cut a miter joint at?"
3:32
I would first address your grammar.
3:36
Next time try, "At what angle should I cut a miter joint?"
3:41
Traditionally, you're going for a 90° corner, so you always bisect your angle, so that would be a 45° angle.
3:50
All your corners should add up to 360°.
3:50
So if you're making a picture frame that's 4 * 90°, that's 360.
3:50
If you're making a hexagon, that's 6 corners, that means 60° per corner, bisected would be 30°.
3:50
But generally, a miter joint refers to 45°.
3:50
Grant Rothberg asks, "True or false, most adorable woodworking assistant ever looks like a clean diaper."
3:50
She's proffering a 2x2 of some softwood, I'm guessing pine, which loses a couple of adorability points, but pretty cute.
3:50
And one might ask, "Is that apron necessary?"
3:50
I'll give her a seven.
3:50
Pretty cute.
4:35
Also, I can't really approve her footwear, but she is cute.
4:47
Photo Dude 4 asks, "Master crafter of wood, period."
4:47
I assume you're referring to me.
4:50
I'm a student of the form, but I appreciate your optimism.
4:53
I beseech thee, what kind of joint is this?
4:57
It blows my mind, funky form and function in an antique.
5:09
I've seen this joinery in some antique drawers, and it's very cool-looking and probably pretty effective, but I don't think it's that impressive because it's pretty clearly made by a machine.
5:09
You can imagine a sequence of forstner bits that have a hole in the middle to create this.
5:22
I'm dubious that it's done by hand, and so dovetails are actually much more impressive than this, but it is very handsome.
5:38
Martin W 7 asks, "What's the best way to dry a fresh oak slab with minimum warp?
5:38
I seem to have no success and cups a lot and with spacers and weight."
5:43
Again, consider your grammar.
5:47
Give your tweets a reread before you hit send.
5:49
Just, you know, it helps us all comprehend our communications better.
5:54
Drying wood is always a conundrum.
5:56
It depends on the climate where you are.
5:59
I do my best to seal the end grain to slow down the evaporation of the water through the ends of the end grain.
6:07
You use a lot of spacers and weight; that's all I know how to do.
6:17
If it's still cupping, maybe create a kiln of your own or find a friend with a kiln in the neighborhood and try to speed up the drying time a little bit.
6:22
That usually can help it cure before the cupping can kick in.
6:29
Otherwise, you can cut them a little fat and then plane them down to level once they've cupped a bit, but that potato chip effect is definitely a tough row to hoe.
6:29
Good luck.
6:38
This has been Wood Support with Nick Offerman.
6:40
I'm not a master of the craft, but I have read some books.
6:42
I hope it's been of some assistance.
6:44
Measure twice, cut once.